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Brent Meersman: Favored Foodie and Cultural Critic

  • Writer: Mia Simpson
    Mia Simpson
  • Apr 29, 2022
  • 3 min read

By Mia Simpson


Brent Meersman, a well-known Capetonian review writer, captivates and cultivates the restaurant industry as a light-hearted and friendly-neighborhood foodie.


Having written for Mail and Guardian for years, reviewing theatre shows, Meersman began reviewing restaurants in 2008. He became well-known for his pieces, welcoming communication with his newfound audience.


As a review writer it is important to perfectly describe your subject. This is done in a way which allows readers to formulate their own opinion and create intrigue. The final desired result of any review is to suggest, in this regard, whether the restaurant is worth visiting.


Meersman has been in the industry for years, writing on a wide variety of cuisine ranging from different ethnicities. He considers Cape town as “the most sophisticated, diverse, food-conscious city in Africa.” He goes on to say that it is “the perfect playground for the restaurant reviewer.”[1] In many ways Meersman perfectly encapsulates the Capetonian flavor, doing so in an honest yet humorous manner.


He includes humor in the slightest manner, simply by referring to the people he dines with as “muchkin”, a favorable term which became known by his audiences. This is a true sigh of a good review writer as he writes in a tasteful manner, ensuring that the true context of the review is not lost while allowing some humanity to solidify the writing.


Giving character to the piece creates a bond with readers. Having perfectly structured a review allows for it to flow and keep the readers eye. This is why the inclusion of humor in some instances is considered necessary.


He is extremely well-written and captivating in his structure, holding the attention of the reader throughout the entire piece. He follows all the rules as a review writer and it is even carried into his other writings, showing his professionalism and experience in the field.


Not only is he well versed in his writing skills, but he understands the ‘rules’. Although review writing allows for creativity to seep into the piece, important steps must be taken to write the perfect review.


The key to good review writing is to set the stage for the reader, help them understand why you chose to dine at the restaurant you are reviewing, providing a detailed summary of the texture, flavors, and appearance of the meals you were served. Meersman does this in a tasteful manner, allowing only his opinion to make an appearance, not suggesting how the reader should feel or think, another factor in review writing.


He is fair in his writing, understanding that not all cuisine is going to be up to the expected cultural standard. Meersman comments lightly on people’s expectation that cuisine must be as similar to its traditional counterpart. He excuses this expectation, complimenting the way in which these locally based restaurants are able, in their best attempt, to recreate these meals.


Meersman speaks on not only the South African cuisine but also the socio-economic situation South Africa and its citizens face. His account on the National Arts Festival in Grahamstown is a prime example of this inclusion and merging of his own personal interests. While the occurrences in Grahamstown may not necessarily food-based content, Meersman includes vital background context.[2]


Meersman is a prime example of a talented writer and in the opinion of many and mentioned personally by Meersman in his piece titled ‘Bitten by the Food Bug’ he speaks of strangers on the street approaching him and questioning him on what his next review will cover, showing clear interest in his opinion.


Many struggle to capture the attention and admiration of audiences as it can be very difficult to find a ‘beat’ that will capture the masses, but Meersman has done just that often shifting with the times and following the trend of the public.


Brent Meersman continues to write about South Africa, an extension of his passion for SA cuisine. Although he is not necessarily writing food reviews presently, Meersman wrote a book in 2021 discussing the so-called “South African reality”[3]. Now 50 years old, Meersman has been writing as a journalist, novelist, and columnist in South Africa for over 20 years and counting.


While Meersman may not be a house-hold name in the common regard, in many ways he has solidified his name as a formidable writer, journalist, columnist and critic.

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